Come the warmer weather, come the scissors. The bird’s nest that kept your ears warm in the cold months and, at its worst, could at least be covered by a hat, is now a sweat-catching liability on your morning commute. To keep your head in the game it’s time for a follicular rethink. These are the cuts you need to know, courtesy of London’s best barbers, Ruffians.
Soft undercut and pompadour
Last year’s footballer haircut gets an upgrade courtesy of – who else? – David Beckham. “We’ve seen a move away from the intricate skin fades of last summer,” says Sophie Skye, from Ruffians’ art team. Substitute the Olivier Giroud clippering for a rougher texture that’s more in keeping with menswear’s general loosening up. Just make sure you’ve got the length to pull it off. “The back and sides have grown out and it’s now scissor cut,” says Skye. “Ask your barber to use it over a comb on the back and sides with a longer fringe, shorter crown and disconnected top.” It’s a haircut of two halves.
How to style it: “Blow dry your hair and then apply a small amount of paste or salt spray to keep it looking natural. Don’t worry about brushing – your hands will do.”
Rockabilly curly quiff
Curly coiffured hair icons are hard to find. Late-80s Kevin Keegan? NSYNC era Justin Timberlake? Annie? Not images you’ve ever troubled your barber with. “This cut gives those with curlier hair the chance to play with exciting silhouettes and dramatic contrast,” says Skye. “Ask for a shorter back and sides, coming to a point at the back. But leave the top as long as possible, coming to a point at the front, too.” Do make sure there’s enough length and weight to give your curls texture and contrast with the short, scissor-cut sides. Don’t veer into permed mohawk territory.
How to style it: “Use a mousse and scrunch dry the curls to enhance them as much as possible. Tease them to a point at the front then apply a wax for shine and control.”
Sweep back
A classic cut that suits early summer squalls, when unpredictable weather risks undoing your hard work in front of the mirror. “This version’s grown out from it’s previous cut,” says Skye; the aggressive tapering that littered East London last year has gone and the sides aren’t cut as close. “Ask your barber to keep the length and weight and to use a scissor over a comb to give it a clean shape.” The thicker your barnet, the better the results. If you’re not so blessed, try something that flatters a receding hairline.
How to style it: “Use a salt spray or a hair powder for lift and texture.” Sweep into place with your hands, then use that saved styling time to work on your smoulder.
French crop
Lack the time or inclination to fuss over your follicles every morning? “This is a classic cut for those looking for something simpler,” says Skye. “Ask for an all scissor cut with a gradual taper on the sides that keeps tight and close to the head but textured and choppy on top.” It’s a cut that lets fine-haired fellows fake thickness, while full heads can embrace the opportunity to take the weight out.
How to style it: “Add a clay for a matte look to create texture and apply it with your hands. There’s no need for a dryer or a brush.” Style the lazy way.
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